6/7/2018
A stiff hot breeze whipped at my tent at dawn, waking me
with a dusting of ancient lake mud and sand that seemed reluctant to come off
once it had adhered to my face. Nice – free sunscreen! You’ve got to make the
best of things sometimes.
I popped out of my tent as the wind started moving things
across my campsite, and surveyed the place where I had set myself down last
night. Yep, still a spectacular scrubby wasteland framed by looming white
cliffs with not a soul in sight. While the sky still retained a bit of the
clear blue brought on by shifting winds in the night, haze was rapidly filling
the valley as the heat climbed and smoke from nearby fires wafted in. It was
then that I really started to appreciate the importance of deep, vibrant
colors. When you spend a lot of time in the desert – even among the incredible
red rock formations found in the Valley of Fire – things start to feel a little
washed out. Maybe it’s a kind of fatigue brought on by endless squinting and
trying to differentiate yellows and oranges and beiges. Maybe my eyes are just
better trained for dappled forests and dark lakes and shaded valleys.
Whatever the reason is, all I know is that Jane suddenly
looked kind of different. Normally, the car’s a pretty bright blue in the
sunlight. But against the backdrop of all of this gray and yellow, the blue
adopted a luxurious rich deep tone that continually drew my eye as it soaked up
the harsh sunlight. It’s kind of weird when you find yourself looking at your
own car just because it’s easier on the eyes than the surrounding environment. I
decided that maybe I was getting a little sun-addled, and maybe it was time to
change things up and skedaddle.
I stopped first near the entrance of the park to see a
few sights, including Turk’s Turban, the rock outcrop that had first made me
want to visit the park. Disappointingly, Turk’s Turban is right on the side of
the road. That’s really only disappointing because I tend to expect to have to
work hard to find and photo the most spectacular views in a park. It’s odd to
be able to just pop out of the car and snap the shot, though I suspect that
many other people just find that convenient.
Anyways, here’s a shot of the coolest spot in the park,
as taken from the side of the road:
A short trail a few miles in length starts at the
adjacent parking lot, so I hopped on that and marched around the canyon for a
bit. The stratigraphic relationship of the different lithologies to each other
is pretty spectacular, even for a non-geologist. Rocks transition sharply from
sandstone to mudstone to volcanic rubble and back again in a pleasingly orderly
fashion. I was once more enthralled.
Also I liked this lizard's orange armpits. |
Eventually I did move on, heading north towards Lake
Isabella seeking a drastic change of scenery.
I passed the lake and continued north, wending my way up
into the mountains. At first, plants remained scrubby, then gave way to browned
evergreens. The first time I rounded a corner and came upon a stand of healthy
aspen trees was pure bliss.
Sure, you’re probably thinking that it’s a little
dramatic to be saying that. But when you’ve spent a lot of time staring at
light yellows and oranges and reds, a deep bright green is really a beautiful
thing. It’s even better when it is accompanied by a significant drop in
temperature that finally allows you to stop sweating for the first time in
days. It really does sooth the soul (and probably soothes your tired eyes as well).
I entered Sequoia National Forest shortly, and headed to
the Trail of 100 Giants. My selected campsite for the night was further north
in the forest, almost up towards Sequoia National Park, which I visited last
year. But I wanted to see this trail of sequoias first.
Though the sequoias here were very large, they were small
in comparison to those that I remembered from the park to the north. It’s
strange, how perspective can diminish something that would have once seriously
impressed you. As it was, I was impressed but not overawed, I guess. There were
some really great trees on the trail, and they had taken quite a long time to
grow, after all. But as far as sequoias go, these were on the smaller end.
Pictured: "the smaller end" of sequoias. Normal sized tree for scale. |
A large downed sequoia. |
View from the top of the large downed sequoia, with human being for scale on the left. |
This tree had a really interesting top - it looks like it has a stand of aspen trees growing at its crown! |
Close up of the "aspen tree grove" at the top of the tree. |
And whatever this thing is. |
The wildflowers should have been my biggest clue.
Everywhere else, wildflowers are dead and gone, withered by the summer heat.
Their continued presence here should have told me how cool the temperatures
really were up here, and that I was actually at quite a high elevation. But I
was walking, so I stayed warm and didn’t notice.
That is, until night fell. Then, suddenly, it was 40
degrees and I was FREEZING! I hadn’t expected to be camping anywhere cold
during this heat wave, so I hadn’t brought my normal blankets along on the
trip. I just had my sleeping bag and no warm clothes to speak of to bundle up
in for the night. But necessity is the mother of invention, and I really don’t
like being cold. Enter the fender grippers.
For those who are less automotively inclined, fender
grippers are foam covers (a similar material to yoga mats, actually) that are
placed over the fenders of a car to avoid scratching the paint while a mechanic
is working in the engine bay. I carry them with me on trips for that purpose,
but also because they are a nice black color and they lay well on top of my
other gear in the back seat, preventing glare issues in the rearview mirror.
And now I had discovered a new use for them: nice snuggly blankets.
I slept snug as a bug that night, tent cinched down to
keep out the cold and sleeping bag piled with repurposed automotive bits. I did
later find out that the campsite I had picked was at 7000 foot elevation, and
well-known for being breezy and a bit nippy. Ah, well. It was a really nice
change of pace anyways.
Kelly signing out.
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