10-26
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This morning was a leisurely affair, as it always is in this
household. We started with coffee (tea for me) on the patio, then migrated
inside for an egg, potato, sausage, bacon, and cheese scramble after an hour of
conversation. Another hour or two of conversation later, it occurred to me that
I would need to get on the road soon if I wanted to beat the searing Phoenix
heat. So, a bit reluctantly, I packed Jane up.
I cranked the motor over with equal mixtures of trepidation
and hope. But Jane fired right up and sounded right as rain. No drama today,
then, at least for now. I said my goodbyes and puttered down the driveway, but
not without looking back. Bryan and Hottie – my “Colorado parents” – have always
been such a wonderful, positive, supporting force in my life. I’m lucky to know
so many people like this. But it’s always hard to leave.
Nevertheless, Jane and I had plans for the day, so leave we
did. I navigated Phoenix’s vast network of highways with the help of Google,
and then we were roaring down I-17 towards Tucson, free of the city if not the
traffic. A short (and most importantly, uneventful) 1.5 hours later, we arrived
at our destination: Picacho Peak.
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Ahhhh, giant open highways all to myself |
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Picacho Peak in the distance to the right, a thorny crown of... well, you'll see |
This place was supposed to be cooler than both Phoenix and
Tucson, but somehow still managed to be a scorching 97*F when I arrived. Ugh.
The ranger walked me through my options – basically just two trails, which led
up to the summit in a 7-mile traverse – and I found myself glad I hadn’t come
in the night before as I had originally planned. I suspect I would have spent a
lot of time sitting outside in the sun.
It was nearing 1:30PM, so I loaded up on water and headed to
the Hunter trailhead. The Hunter trail is 1.6 miles long, one-way, with a stout
1300’ elevation gain. The ranger warned me it would be steep and difficult, but
it couldn’t be worse than Flat Iron was, so I wasn’t worried about a strenuous
hike in the heat. No time like the present, especially when the present is the
rapidly-approaching hottest part of the day, on a highly exposed steep sunny
mountain!
What I found is that this trail is, in fact, way worse than
Flat Iron.
The hike up to the Saddle – about 2/3rds of the way up the
mountain – was hot but pleasant, with cool views and a neat self-guided geology
tour. The afternoon timing actually worked for me here, as part of the mountain
was in shadow which limited temperatures. It was an average (but steep), nice
well-worn dirt trail.
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A neat breccia |
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The end of the shady part... Saddle lies just ahead |
But upon reaching the Saddle, I found that a madman had taken
over. A madman, it turns out, with far
more rebar and steel cable than patience and trail engineering acumen.
First, the trail took a steep (and totally unnecessary) 400’
dive down a slippery rock face.
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Mostly you just slide down this on your butt when you're going down |
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Oh good, "stairs"! |
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The worst-engineered "stair" I've ever seen, complete with 8 or 9 pieces of randomly staked rebar |
Then, it jinked around to the south before ascending
precipitously, bulling its way across the mountain with liberal use of rebar,
steel cable handholds, and on occasion fence netting where cables were deemed
insufficient to keep hikers on the mountain.
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The cliffy side of the mountain... |
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...and the means by which you ascend it |
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Looking down a cable handrail... exactly as steep as it looks |
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A cool saguaro-filled bowl near the top of the mountain. Also, one of the few places where you could walk on a normal trail |
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Watching some hikers climbing back down this... whatever it is |
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Looking up the "whatever it is", mostly just a 30' long crack with cables run up it for some reason |
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Looking down on the saguaro bowl |
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Looking down on The Crack (lol) |
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Another piece of the trail with a strategically placed 2x6 for extra walking space |
It was absurd. I mean, I’m not afraid of heights – and I’ve
got Zion’s Angel’s Landing hike under my belt to prove it – but every minute of
that hike had me questioning whether I really wanted to continue. Did I really
want to trust my full weight to cables installed by a madman? The answer was
definitely no. But as always, persistence won out over common sense (a trait I
had in common with the madman, I guess), and I hauled my way up to the top of
that damn mountain for some admittedly pretty cool views.
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Looking down the spine of the mountain |
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A picturesque saguaro |
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Neat drainages in the foreground, blue mountains marching to the horizon in the back |
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I don't know what this mountain is called, but I sure looked at it a lot |
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The same mountain, but this time with a massive train for scale |
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A super long train! |
But then I had to go back down. Let me tell you, it is a
special kind of hell to be climbing backwards, with no visibility of your next
steps, using cables to support your entire weight – and doing it very quickly,
because of course the cables are ripping hot because they’re metal and it’s
sunny and nearly 100*F out. Boy howdy that was NOT fun. But it did have the
effect of getting me down from that section 4x faster than I had gone up.
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Pretty in the afternoon sunlight though, as long as I tried really hard to forget about all the rebar |
Eventually I reached the Saddle and the shady side of the
mountain, somehow without mishap. I sat down for a bit, in part to consider my
life choices. But in part to wait for my campsite, which I could see, to start
to fall into shadow. Might as well stay in the shade on the side of the
mountain instead of setting up camp in the blistering sun.
After a while, I decided the sun was low enough and I
proceeded down the rest of the mountain, my knees screaming the whole way. I
have really done a number on them the past couple weeks. But hey, I’m getting
to the end of my trip, so what’s a little more for the sake of a few last great
views?
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The best view of all |
My campsite proved to be another great view, even if I could
see the interstate from it.
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Boy, that is RED |
As night fell, I watched the saguaros darken to inky silhouettes
against the vivid orange and indigo sky.
The trails might have been designed by a madman, but the
campground certainly hadn’t. I sat out in my camp chair long after night fell,
the Milky Way rising and wheeling through that wide-open sky that I love so
well, an endless scroll of the heavens, tantalizing flashes of far-away
unreachable realms. Moments like these are few and far between, especially as
the human world continues to expand. But for now, it is perfect. Even if I can
still hear the interstate.
Kelly signing out.